Day Trip Down the Ohio River.

After staying up late last night reading about the lingering questions in the FBI investigation of the post-911 anthrax letters, it was very refreshing to get out of town for the day with a nice long drive. My friend John put together an itinerary for a day trip earlier this summer. He grew up in West Virginia and understood my interest in the state, so he wrote out a plan that would take me down through a few of the small towns along the Ohio River. In theory it seemed attractive, and I have a good sense of John's tastes, so I figured he'd set me on the right path. My friend Mike shared an interest in getting away, and he decided that he wanted to drive his newly-acquired Ford Probe. It had been a long time since I filled the role of passenger, but it freed me up to serve as navigator.

We left at around 9AM, and I made sure to get fortified on espresso before we even left the 'Burgh. After a reasonably brief interlude that took us off our course, we found our way to Rte. 22 and headed for Weirton where we could pick up 7 South, which is on the Ohio side of the river. Our first stop was Steubenville, where we wanted to take a look at some murals. Throughout the city there are about 26 of these paintings that depict the history of the city on the exteriors of old buildings. I couldn't track down the original date of initiation for the project, but I noticed that a lot of them were painted over the last ten (or so) years. We were lucky enough to stumble into an antique store that provided us with a map to find them.

There were several impressive works with themes that included street scenes, a stone quarry, and a hospital. I tried to take some photos of my favorites, but was occasionally thwarted by parked cars obscuring my view. Steubenville definitely has some charm in a beat-up kind of way, and the people we ran into all seemed very nice. We stumbled on a weird little "Animation Factory" at the Creegan Company. I even found a full-size Jack Chick-style Christian conversion comic that I was able to purchase quite cheaply. After a short walk around, it was on to nearby Wheeling, WV for lunch. In the center of this modest city is a market with what are reported to be the best fish sandwiches in the world (at a vendor called Coleman's). I don't like them though, so I had to take Mike's word for it- he said his was delicious.

We also sidestepped through an extremely cramped bookstore called Paradox. I was a bit overwhelmed by the looming shelves, narrow clearances, and unconditioned air, and didn't stay nearly as long as I would have liked to. We continued on our way down the Ohio River Valley on Rte 2, eventually hitting Sistersville. There we came across another bookstore- but this one was going out of business and had priced everything at a dollar. It took me a little over an hour to comb through the inventory. I walked away with titles by Jim Thompson, Rick Bragg, Colin Wilson, and Steve Erickson. I was pretty nearly in heaven. Mike meanwhile was impressed by the architecture and bucolic setting, both of which seemed to him to be literally frozen in time.

Our last stopover was in Moundsville where we planned to grab dinner. I got to choose the place as Mike was still impressed by that fish sandwich and I was the beneficiary of the only misplaced tip that John had for us. J. suggested we get pizza at DiCarlo's, which must be some local tradition. It was like school cafeteria-style "pizza" in a square shape, and the extra cheese I ordered was thrown on top uncooked. I thought it was terrible. I chalked it up to childhood nostalgia on John's part. Anyway, I insisted on the Acapulco Mexican Restaurant on 8th Street. I had recalled it from an earlier trip through town when I toured the Penitentiary. It was even better than remembered, and the perfect way to conclude our fun before heading back to Pittsburgh.

Pittsburgh Public Art and The Sprout Fund.

I'd have to say that I don't remember noticing much public art in the place of my birth (Allentown). There were probably some forgettable sculptures in the city parks. But there wasn't much of an emphasis on arts and culture. This is likely attributable to the fact that this smallish city is sandwiched in between New York City and Philadelphia (a Smithsonian Institute survey reported that Philly has more public art than any other American city). In most ways the place lived in the shadows of these historically significant centers. There is an Allentown Art Museum, which I remember frequenting now and again on school field trips. However I can't visualize a single piece that I ever saw there. The single most noted destination is probably the replica of the Liberty Bell (apparently it was brought through town back in the Revolutionary War days).

I certainly don't remember any public mandate to create murals in Allentown. Apparently there is an organization called Lehigh Valley Community Mural Projects that is trying to get something going in the city. Although from what I've read they have had difficulty getting the necessary funding. I have noticed that nearby Easton has had some success in creating these works. I don't think many people realize just how lucky we are in Pittsburgh to have a vast wealth of quality murals in our city and its environs. Unlike the Northeastern Corridor, this region does not have numerous nodes of cultural concentration. If the 'Burgh didn't make the effort, then Western Pennsylvania would be pretty barren.

Our citizens have a lot to feel proud about here in Pittsburgh. Great efforts have been made over the last decade to start incorporating more public art in our midst. The Sprout Fund was formed in 2001 to enhance the greater image of the city and its surroundings. Every year it provides funding for between 7 and 9 pieces, and the results are starting to accumulate nicely all over town. Many transitioning neighborhoods have been significantly brightened by the artwork completed by Sprout-funded muralists (38 so far). Along with other newly-formed projects, the organization is gradually making Pittsburgh into a "museum without walls". I'm impressed by these efforts- so much that when I was asked to serve as a member of the Public Art Advisory Committee, I happily accepted.

Prior to orientation at the Sprout Fund's new headquarters in Garfield (along Penn Avenue), I really had no idea how their locations or participating artists were chosen. I do know plenty of artists around town, and had heard about some of their experiences with the proposal process. I was anxious to learn how it was all accomplished. A couple of weeks ago the board examined the proposals submitted by individuals and organizations desiring to have a mural completed within their communities. There were many quality sites suggested, and it was a bit difficult to make our decisions. Various criteria are assessed, including location, visibility, community and organizational involvement. Every effort is made to ensure that objectivity prevails. Any inherent bias of a committee member is offset by the diversity and aesthetic variability of the remaining members.

This past week we got together again to review the results of our location rankings, and survey the artists who submitted their portfolios for review. There were a lot of submissions from artists this year. That meant that there was an avalanche of work to consider. I think everybody was heartened by the quantity and quality of folks wanting to create murals. It's a great reflection on the arts scene here that so many talented individuals want to share their gifts with the community. I was particularly pleased by the wide range of styles represented. As with the assessments of locations, we used a standardized rating system to minimize the extension of personal favor. I'm looking forward to seeing who the communities will choose from the selected pool of artists we decided upon. But more than anything else I'm excited to see the finished products of a process I was able to participate in. I can hardly wait to see the 2008 murals unveiled.

Maxo Vanka and St. Nicholas Church, Millvale, PA.

Earlier I wrote about a little-known local Pittsburgh gem called St. Anthony's. Certainly this collection of relics housed in the Troy Hill neighborhood is like no other in the world. But it's not the only unparalleled experience you can have at a church around these parts. In nearby Millvale sits another form of unimagined treasure. St. Nicholas Catholic Church ministers to the needs of a local community of refugees from war-torn Croatia and Bosnia-Herzogevina, as well as the historically entrenched populations from these countries that have lived in Pittsburgh for decades. There are actually two St. Nicholas locations within the parish- a situation that has been a source of confusion for many years. One of these physical structures is no longer in service, as it lies along a well-traveled corridor dominated by Route 28. Planned roadwork has sealed the fate of this church, and the building itself is most likely not long for this world.

Meanwhile the Millvale location of St. Nicholas is a regional (and perhaps international) treasure. The outward appearance and construction of this house of worship offer no clues to its exceptionality. Yet if you manage to gain entry inside, you will quickly become aware that nothing like it exists anywhere else. For on the inner walls of the church are painted striking murals, complete with social commentary and unique spiritual resonance. They were painted in the 1930's and 40's by Croatian artist Maxo Vanka. As the official church website points out-
"They represent the struggles of the Croatian people in the face of war and poverty in their homeland and as immigrants in post-industrial America." They are the artist's emotionally- drenched and troublesome gift to this nation's people. And they serve both as a reminder of the importance of faith, and as a warning of what humanity is capable of.

Vanka's personal belief in the futility of war and his sadness at seeing his homeland destroyed are made patently obvious through his work. After being commissioned by Father Albert Zagar to paint the murals in 1937, Vanka completed two cycles of paintings (20 altogether)- the first in an eight-week span that spring, and the second group in 1941. The latter works clearly demonstrate his anguish over the war in Europe. He set for himself grueling shifts of up to 16-18 hours a day, and sustained his energy with multiple doses of Coca-Cola. Zagar gave the internationally-renowned artist a freehand to depict whatever imagery he so chose. In doing so, Zagar empowered Vanka to create timeless works mixing secular and spiritual concerns in a manner wholly original.

The content of these murals is truly unforgettable. There are mournful peasants entreating God for support in their difficult struggles in the Croatian countryside. An angel in a gas mask looms over the congregation from high upon one wall. An anguished, crucified Christ separates two war-crazed soldiers. In a similar scene, the Virgin Mary desperately tries her hand at a peaceful resolution. On another wall an industrial robber baron sits at dinner and is served a cleansing course of fiery retribution by a skeletal hand. These are not the placid reassuring scenes of sanctification that a regular churchgoer becomes acclimated to. They challenge the viewer to seek the holy in the most trying of times.

Had these paintings been completed for a museum, they would inspire a constant stream of tourists from all over the world. As it is, they await the few who become aware of their existence through word-of-mouth. Since my initial exposure to them, I have tried periodically to see them again. But it's no use showing up on church property, hoping for the random chance. You must call ahead of time to see the murals. Fortunately the woman in charge of tours is accommodating, and will show you around for nothing but a freely-offered donation. If you happen to be in the Pittsburgh area, I am scheduling a group tour for this coming Monday at noon. Contact me (my e-mail is available through my profile) if you want to be included. The experience will leave an indelible mark upon you.